Oregon on Fire

September began as usual, with shorter days and leaves on the ground. Summer came to an abrupt halt on Labor Day, however, when rising temperatures and high winds erupted in a mass of wildfires ravaging the west coast. California and Washington are experiencing one of the worst fire seasons in recorded history. While central and southern Oregon are no stranger to wildfires, the recent destruction has spread to the more fire-resistant forests on the west side of the Cascades. Officials count more than a million acres burned statewide, with tens of thousands of people forced to evacuate. And more tragically, the loss of life, including countless innocent animals.

As fire fighters work tirelessly to contain the numerous fires, the aftermath continues to unfold. An air quality index between 300-500 is considered hazardous. On Sunday morning, Portland’s air quality index value hovered around 516, holding first place in the rankings of major cities with the worst air quality in the world. Smaller cities and towns in Oregon are faring even worse as clouds of smoke continue to blow through the region. 

According to Oregon governor, Kate Brown, the state's record-shattering wildfires were the result of a powerful windstorm, decades of national mismanagement of our forests and climate change.

Outside is my favorite place to be. Considering the social guidelines of COVID-19, it has also become the safest place to be. Oregon's green, enchanted forests are the primary reason behind my contentedness here. The death and destruction of our precious outdoors has, thus, left me heartbroken and in despair. What has become of my beloved hiking trails? Left without access to physical activity and time outside, my energy and motivation are at an all-time low. I am therefore challenged to summon a deep-rooted optimism that rain will soon come to cleanse the earth, dissolve the smoke and bring regrowth and new life.

As 2020 continues to unfurl with one public crisis after another, the sense of an apocalypse has never felt more real. It is clear to me that the planet is fighting back against years of havoc that humans have created in a disharmonious existence. The silver lining of the situation is the pause--the gift, really--that we have been given to slow down and rethink a better future with sustainable systems and respect for all living beings. The only question is, do we have the courage to change?

Thank you to our fire departments and first responders.

Pray for rain.

North Cascades National Park

North Cascades National Park embodies a section of the Cascade Range that spans the border between Washington and Canada. The alpine wonderland contains cascading waters in forested valleys and jagged peaks crowned by more than 300 glaciers. Relative to other larger national parks, the North Cascades is manageable in size, which makes trip planning less overwhelming.

The best weather for visiting typically occurs between mid-June and late-September. The east side of the Cascade Mountains is drier and warmer in the summer (90's F) than the temperate rainforest of the west side. The various landscapes, ecosystems and habitats that span the Cascade Crest result in a high diversity of plants and animals including black bears, mountain goats, marmots, pika, butterflies, wildflowers, and mountain blueberries. The relatively new mountains, glaciers and streams lie near a dynamic interface of tectonic plates and provide an opportunity to study geologic processes unfolding over time.

8/29/20 - 9/3/20

SATURDAY (DAY 1): Olympic Peninsula 

The quickest route north from Portland to the North Cascades is just shy of 5 hours, but Tom and I began our trip with a more scenic route. We added an extra hour by way of Highway 101 along Washington's Olympic Peninsula. From Port Townsend, we took a ferry to Coupeville, stopping for an Italian dinner at Ciao. That evening, we arrived in Marblemount, where we would spend the next 3 nights at Buffalo Run Inn--a modest stay located on the park's western boundary.

SUNDAY (DAY 2): Cascade Pass/Sahale Arm

Date: 8/30/20
Stats: 12-mile out-and-back, 4,000' gain, 7,570' peak
Synopsis: A heavily-trafficked trek that ambles peacefully through rolling alpine meadows blanketing the broad shoulder of Sahale Mountain. This park-like setting is made more spectacular by contrast with the dramatic mountainous terrain that stretches in every direction.
Highlights:

• Home to black bears, mountain goats and marmots
• Best views, second favorite trail
• 9:30pm-4pm RT

MONDAY (DAY 3): Hidden Lake Lookout
Date: 8/31/20
Stats: 8-mile out-and-back, 3,300' gain, 6,900' peak
Synopsis: Varied terrain ranging from wildflower meadows to stark granite that leads to a historic lookout shelter with an intimate view of the heart of the North Cascades.
Highlights:

• Final 5 miles to trailhead require 4WD/high clearance vehicle
• Bouldering, snowy patches and route finding required
• Would be top 3 in clear, dry conditions
• 9am-3pm RT

  

Clear conditions

TUESDAY (DAY 4): Mt. Baker Scenic Byway
Tuckered from two days of hard hiking, Tom and I decided to trade our plan to trek Thornton Lakes/Trappers Peak (honorable mention Easy Pass) for a rest day. Winding along the banks of the Nooksack River, through small logging communities, waterfalls and old-growth forest groves, Mt. Baker Scenic Byway is a 58-mile drive that ends at the base of the 10,781' volcano, Mt. Baker.

At Nooksack Falls, the Nooksack River flows through a narrow gorge and drops 88' into a deep rocky river canyon.

Picture Lake is the centerpiece of a strikingly beautiful landscape in the Heather Meadows area. The classic alpine vista of Mt. Shuksan mirrored in Picture Lake is stunning against the colorful plant foliage.

Located at the end of the byway, Artist Point offers 360-degree views of Mts. Shuksan and Baker, as well as access to a variety of trails. Due to excessive annual snowfall, the area is only open from late July to early October.

Back in the heart of the park, Tom and I set up camp that evening at Newhalem Campground. How natural it is to free yourself from all worries and sleep under the stars.

WEDNESDAY (DAY 5): Sourdough Mountain Lookout
Date: 9/2/20
Stats: 10.4-mile out-and-back, 4,870' gain, 5,985' peak
Synopsis: A strenuous yet rewarding challenge that alternates through charming groves of sub-alpine forest and open meadows of vibrant wildflowers. From the lookout, 360-degree views of glaciated peaks line the horizon high above the turquoise waters of Diablo and Ross Lakes.
Highlights:

• Home to one of the first lookouts established by the U.S. Forest Service, which was frequented by several beatnik poets
• 1,000' climb per mile for 5 miles (equivalent to Mt. Defiance in the Columbia River Gorge)
• 9am-3pm RT

Clear conditions

Our final night took us to the drier east side of the park at the River Run Inn. Our cozy cabin patio overlooked the tranquil Methow River and its large deer population. Tom and I ventured into the neighboring cowboy town, Winthrop, and enjoyed a hot meal at East 20 Pizza.

THURSDAY (DAY 6): Heather-Maple Pass
Date: 9/3/20
Stats: 7.2-mile loop, 2,000' gain, 6,650' peak
Synopsis: A heavily-trafficked trail that satisfies all hikers' desires, featuring ridge lines blanketed in wildflowers and a sea of peaks extending in every direction.
Highlights:

• Follow the loop counter-clockwise, and take the short detour to the shores of Lake Ann, a glacial cirque cradled in a talus bowl
• Favorite trail
• 9am-12:30pm RT

Tom and I once again chose the longer, scenic route home through Lake Chelan National Recreation Area, which rests in a glacially carved trough in the pristine Stehekin Valley. Fjord-like Lake Chelan is one of the nation's deepest lakes, extending 50 miles into the Cascade Mountains. I am excited by the thought of spending more time here in the future.

Tom and I continued driving south through central Washington, into the haze of a smoky wildfire (foreshadowing what was to come), before emerging in the Columbia River Gorge at sunset. I am eternally grateful for this wonderful opportunity to reset, slow down and connect with nature while staying active.