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| 3/12-3/16 |
The four of us embarked on the 3.5-hour ferry ride to the North Island on Tuesday morning. Sailing out of Picton through the Queen Charlotte Sound, we crossed the Cook Strait with the Tasman Sea on the west and the South Pacific Ocean on the east. We arrived into the Wellington Harbor just before noon.
Recently named "the coolest little capital in the world" by Lonely Planet, Wellington is a compact city fueled by creative energy. Strong winds through the Cook Strait give it the nickname "Windy Wellington." Along the waterfront is Te Papa Tongarewa Museum, the national museum with six floors of engaging, interactive displays. Te Papa means "our place." Free admission grants access to Māori and Pacific cultural treasures, as well as NZ’s extraordinary natural life, art and history.
After our visit to the museum, we scoped out Cuba Street, the soulful, grimy heart of bohemia. Fresh pasta for dinner at 1154, dessert at Midnight Espresso, drinks at J.J. murphy & Co. Laundry and a clean, modern atmosphere at The Marion Hostel.
Wednesday began with a short hike to the Mt. Victoria Lookout. Located next to the CBD, a steep, forested climb is rewarded with beautiful views of Wellington city and harbor.
Colorful timber houses on surrounding hills are reminiscent of San Francisco or, perhaps, of Rio de Janeiro (in my head, anyway).
Ending the trek at the waterfront promenade, we enjoyed the salty sea air and sandy beaches at Oriental Bay. In the late morning sun and 70-degree temperatures, I imagined it to be more crowded during the summer.
On the way out of town, we stopped for lunch at a sunny, plant-based cafe, The Botanist. Best meal of the trip!
With more time, we might have visited urban sanctuary, Zealandia, but we set off instead to Howard's Lodge in Tongariro National Park--a four-hour drive north.
ROTOURA/TAUPO (DAY 14)
The plan was to hike the Tongariro Alpine Crossing on Thursday, but a rainy weather forecast shifted the original schedule. First up, Mangawhero Falls--LOTR filming location of Gollum's Forbidden Pool.
Driving north out of the park, the dreary alpine climate quickly cleared with temperatures in the 60s. Lake Taupō, Australasia's largest lake, is a volcano with a fiery history. Its most recent eruption in 181 AD was large enough to change the sky as far away as Europe and China. According to Māori legend, the lake is the pulsating heart of Maui's fish (the North Island).
At Huka Falls, 60,000 gallons of water barrel over a 36' waterfall every second. This powerful natural phenomenon is caused by the narrowing of the Waikato River, from 300' to just 50' wide, as it passes through a hard volcanic canyon.
Another hour north lies Rotorua, a town known for its bubbling mud pools, shooting geysers and natural hot springs, as well as for showcasing the fascinating Māori culture. Sitting within the Pacific Rim of Fire, Rotorua is a geothermal wonderland.
After grabbing a bite to eat by the lake downtown, we spent the next few hours nearby at the Redwood Whakarewarewa Forest. Of 170 tree species planted in the forest as part of the trial in the early 1900s, only a handful remain today. From these original trials, Monterey Pine adapted well to the conditions and has become the most important commercial species in NZ. The 15-acre stand of Californian Redwoods is protected from tree harvesting.
The Quarry Lookout Track involves a short climb through mature Douglas fir, European Larch, Walnut and various species of Eucalypts. The lookout point above the old rhyolite quarry offers a grand view over the Redwood Grove, out to Lake Rotorua and the main city center.
Tucked away beside the forest is a series of stunning lakes. The color of Blue Lake (Tikitapu) comes from the sun's reflection of the lake's pumice and rhyolite bottom.
In the right conditions, Green Lake (Rotokakahi) is emerald green due to its shallow and sandy bottom.
Our final stop of the day was the naturally heated waters of Kerosene Creek, where hot spring meets freshwater stream. What a treat!
We spent the next two nights at Taupō's Haka Lodge.
TONGARIRO NATIONAL PARK (DAY 15)
On Friday morning, we backtracked to Tongariro National Park in hopes of completing the famous Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Tongariro National Park is NZ's oldest national park and a dual World Heritage Site. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a challenging trek across a remarkable volcanic alpine landscape with ancient lava flows, an active crater, steam vents, glacial valley, emerald lakes and incredible views. It is of NZ's greatest day hikes, as well as the LOTR filming location for Mordor.
The forecast predicted rain with temperatures in the 40s, but we decided to give it a go anyway. We parked at the carpark at the end of the trail and caught a shuttle to drop us at the start. The 12-mile trip begins at Mangatepopo Valley, following a stream and the edges of old lava flows. Even in less than ideal weather, the popular trail was crowded enough to mimic a pilgrimage.
At the head of the valley, the path becomes steeper, climbing from the valley to Mangatepopo Saddle between the mountains of Tongariro and Ngauruhoe (Mt. Doom). Outstanding panoramic views look out over the otherworldly terrain.
The trail leads from South Crater upwards towards Red Crater, the highest point of the crossing (6,188'). The smell of sulphur is a reminder that the crater is still active.
From here begins the descent on volcanic rock scree to the Emerald Lakes. The vivid color is caused by minerals leeching from the surrounding thermal environment.
The trail continues over Central Crater to the old volcanic vent of Blue Lake before it rounds the flanks of North Crater and descends to Ketetahi Shelter. The final section is a long descent through tussock slopes to cool green forest--a refreshing change to the volcanic landscape.
The hike isn't particularly steep (~2,500' gain), but my legs were still worn out after the eight-hour journey!
Back in Taupō, we gorged on vegan burgers at BurgerFuel and toasted to our last night in NZ.
Consistently rated as one of the most livable cities in the world, Auckland is NZ's largest and most diverse city. More than just a city, Auckland is an entire region filled with a wide variety of landscapes that provide countless opportunities immerse in nature. In the west, lush native rainforest plunges down the hills to meet the sea on dramatic black sand beaches, while the east’s sheltered golden beaches are fringed with red-flowering pohutukawa trees. To the north, the rolling hills of wine country meet alluring coastlines, and the south offers picturesque country gardens, unspoiled forest and tranquil bays. The Auckland region is dotted with 48 volcanic cones, while the Hauraki Gulf Marine Park encompasses an expansive area of coast, sea and islands.
After the four-hour drive, there was unfortunately little time to scout the area (next time, perhaps?). The four of us shared a picnic lunch in a city park before parting ways; Lexi and I to spend our last week in Australia, Sarah stateside to return to work, and Anna to continue exploring for the next two months (the rest of us living vicariously through her).
While OZ is like home on the other side of the world, NZ is unlike any place that I have ever been. The small population and brilliant color palette of the diverse landscapes are just a few possible factors at play. In making this distinction, I am amused by the seemingly arbitrary association between two countries that could not be more different. Australia is surrounded by a number of islands; why, then, do North Americans commonly pair it with NZ?
That being said, I feel extremely grateful for my visit to both countries. While our extensive itinerary was exhausting, I now know where I would focus my time on a return trip. Favorite part of NZ? South Island! Queenstown/Wanaka area called to me, while Fiordland and Mt. Cook National Parks were epic. Part of me wonders if I could live in NZ. The isolation would surely pose the greatest challenge. I would also have to research winter conditions.
Another learning point of the trip arrived with the pros/cons of traveling in a group. While I might have connected more with locals and fellow travelers had it been a solo trip, being able to share the experience with three fantastic friends made it more special.
While OZ is like home on the other side of the world, NZ is unlike any place that I have ever been. The small population and brilliant color palette of the diverse landscapes are just a few possible factors at play. In making this distinction, I am amused by the seemingly arbitrary association between two countries that could not be more different. Australia is surrounded by a number of islands; why, then, do North Americans commonly pair it with NZ?
That being said, I feel extremely grateful for my visit to both countries. While our extensive itinerary was exhausting, I now know where I would focus my time on a return trip. Favorite part of NZ? South Island! Queenstown/Wanaka area called to me, while Fiordland and Mt. Cook National Parks were epic. Part of me wonders if I could live in NZ. The isolation would surely pose the greatest challenge. I would also have to research winter conditions.
Another learning point of the trip arrived with the pros/cons of traveling in a group. While I might have connected more with locals and fellow travelers had it been a solo trip, being able to share the experience with three fantastic friends made it more special.
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| With my passion for traveling freshly reignited, the wheels are already turning for my next adventure! |
