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I won't lie--the flight from LA to Sydney is not fun. The 14-hour journey covers ~7,500 miles, arriving in Sydney two days after departure (due to crossing the International Date Line). Luckily, Qantas airlines offered services and amenities to encourage maximum comfort during the overnight flight. Excitement dissolved my exhaustion as the plane touched down, and I saw the girls at the airport.
Capital of the east coast state of New South Wales, Sydney is one of the nation's largest cities. With only a few days to explore, we hit the ground running on Friday. Adrenaline masked the inevitable jet lag (17 hours ahead of PST) as we navigated the public transit train system from the airport to Blue Parrot Backpackers in the charming Potts Point neighborhood. Anna, Lexi, Sarah and I dropped off our duffel bags and set out on foot. We were in Australia!
The weather was perfect--70s and sunny. March signaled the start of autumn in the southern hemisphere. Still, coming from the North American winter, the four of us were sunburnt by our first afternoon! We also learned that the ozone layer over OZ is thinned, leading to increased UV radiation.
Free admission to the Royal Botanic Garden provides excellent views of Sydney Harbor.
The white sails of the Sydney Opera House inspired a lengthy stop. The performing arts venue is one of the 20th century's most iconic buildings. Giddy with our good fortune, we toasted cold beers to the next three weeks down under!
Passing on the official Bridge Climb over the Sydney Harbor Bridge, we were just as content to walk across it for free.
Next, we strolled through The Rocks district, which hosts a Friday Foodie Market.
After grabbing a bite to eat, we ended our evening back at Circular Quay for the nightly light show. A colorful seven-minute projection celebrates the rich history and contemporary vibrancy of OZ’s First Nations culture.
Saturday was a surf day! Bondi Beach is a 30-minute bus ride from town, and offers visitors insights into the country's easy-going beach culture. The stretch of golden sand and curling waves makes for OZ's most famous beach. Interestingly, the Bondi Surf Bathers' Life Saving Club is recognized as the oldest surf life saving club in the world.
Sarah and I signed up for a two-hour beginner lesson with Let's Go Surfing. I was surprised by how difficult it was to paddle out against the current, but pleased to have managed to stand up a few times by the end of the lesson. The sweet taste of surf life has me considering future trials of the sport on the Oregon Coast. After all, I do love the ocean...
The four of us refueled with vegan burgers at a funky cafe. Bondi's beach town vibe left a positive impression on me.
After lunch, we sauntered along the 1.5-mile Bondi to Bronte walk. This scenic coastal walk between two of Sydney’s most iconic beaches also includes Tamarama and Mackenzie's Bays, with panoramic vistas of the South Pacific Ocean and coastal cliffs. Whales can be spotted here during their annual migration (winter/spring).
That evening happened to be Mardi Gras, which, in Sydney, is an annual LGBT pride parade and festival. Back in the city, we rallied with Anna's friends and joined in the Carnival festivities!
Before catching my flight to New Zealand on Sunday afternoon, I toured Hyde Park and Darling Harbor. Hyde Park is OZ's oldest park and one of the most well-known. With 40 acres of open space in the heart of Sydney, there is no shortage of lush grass and big, leafy trees.
Following a two-week adventure through New Zealand (see next posts), Lexi and I returned to OZ for another week. The first few days were spent in Melbourne (pronounced like "Melbin" with the Aussie accent), the coastal capital of the southeastern state of Victoria.
Nearby is St. Paul’s Cathedral.
On Sunday, Lexi and I improvised a walking tour of town. We set out from Flinders Backpackers in the central business district. At the city's center is the modern Federation Square development that is located adjacent to Flinders Street Station, the central railway station.
Nearby is St. Paul’s Cathedral.
Across the Yarra River is the Southbank area, home of the the Melbourne Arts Precinct.
From there, Lexi and I caught a free tram to the Queen Victoria Market, the largest open air market in the southern hemisphere. This authentic, bustling, inner-city market has been the heart and soul of Melbourne for over 140 years. I could have spent all my time and money there!
Still hungry for more, we backtracked to the South Melbourne Market, a similar but smaller indoor market that opened in 1867.
The overcast morning gave way to a sunny afternoon in the high 60s. Both in food comas, Lexi and I lounged lazily at the free Royal Botanic Gardens, first taking in the city skyline from atop the war memorial, the Shrine of Remembrance.
We eventually made our way back to Flinders Walk to dine on the Southbank--easily one of my favorite areas of town.
In true Irish fashion, the pair of us celebrated St. Patrick's Day that evening at a local Irish pub.
On Monday, Lexi and I booked a full-day airbnb tour on the Great Ocean Road, a famous journey with rolling hills, lush rainforest and spectacular coastal scenery. The 151-mile stretch of road dedicated to WWI soldiers was built between 1919 and 1932.
Led by Rich, our small group got an early start in order to beat the crowds to the Twelve Apostles, a towering collection of limestone stacks off the shore of Port Campbell National Park. The giant stone monoliths were connected to the mainland cliffs 20 million years ago. Stormy Southern Ocean waves and blasting winds gradually eroded them into caves, then arches, which ultimately collapsed into 150' columns. There are currently only eight Apostles, but who knows when the next cliffs will become pillars... Our first glimpse of the stunning feature came from the beach below the Gibson Steps.
We then viewed the area from above. The lighting was fantastic; throughout the day, the colors ebb and flow across the rock, changing the face and feel of the mighty rocks.
Nearby is the historic Loch Ard Gorge, home to a smooth, pearlescent bay and an inlet of clear, blue water. It’s flanked by two yellow-washed cliff faces and tufts of vibrant greenery. In 1878, a clipper ship named Loch Ard beached on nearby Muttonbird Island after a tumultuous crossing from England. The two remaining rock pillars of the gorge have been named Tom and Eva after the only survivors of the shipwreck.
On the return drive to Melbourne, the group made several stops along the Great Ocean Road, including a quick hike to Erskine Falls, a nearly 100' waterfall nestled in the verdant Otway Mountains.
We also checked out Lavers Hill, the surf town of Apollo Bay, and Kennett River--where the local koalas and kangaroos hang out. Overall, the experience was a trip highlight!
Lexi got a head start to our final destination on Tuesday, while I stayed an extra day in Melbourne. I set out to find the hipster neighborhood of Fitzroy. Along the way, I admired the European-style cafes on Degraves Street, as well as the artistic street art on Hoiser Lane and AC/DC Lane. I also had a look at the Rod Laver Arena--Grand Slam tennis venue for the Australian Open!
The Fitzroy Gardens are one of Melbourne's most historic and beautiful gardens.
St. Patrick's Cathedral lies adjacent to the park.
At last, I reached Fitzroy, a lively northeastern suburb with a bohemian culture. A slightly grungy vibe exudes from a spattering of eclectic bars and eateries, vintage clothing and art-supply stores, and record shops. It is also a cycling and vegan mecca! Could Melbourne be the Portland of OZ?
My feet needed a rest after lunch, so I rented a bike and passed the afternoon at beachside St Kilda. Just 3.5 miles from the city center, St Kilda is Melbourne’s seaside playground, renowned for its expansive view of Port Phillip, palm-lined boardwalk, beach activities (i.e., kite surfing), killer sunsets, and parks and gardens.
The heritage left behind by an influx of cosmopolitan European migrants in the 1950s can still be seen in the Euro-style cake shops, cafes and designer shops. I devoured a raw, vegan lasagna at Sister Of Soul.
Most evenings at dusk, small penguins can be seen on the breakwater at the end of the pier. I also spotted many large jellyfish, which I never received the story on... likely harmless?
CAIRNS (DAYS 20-23)
The final stop on the journey was Cairns (pronounced "Cans"), gateway to the Great Barrier Reef in Far North Queensland. Northwest of the city, Daintree National Park spans mountainous rainforest and beaches.
Lexi and I had originally planned to wrap up our trip with a few relaxing beach days (i.e., work on our tans). Unfortunately, however, our untimely arrival coincided with that of a cyclone. We both agreed that we never felt dry during our time in Cairns.
The humid, tropical climate with lush vegetation (again, the trees) reminded me of the Hawaiian Islands.
A short stroll from Caravella Backpackers, the Cairns Esplanade is lined with bars and restaurants, complete with a swimming lagoon. Lexi and I spent Wednesday here, despite the persistent (yet light) rains. We even joined the community aquatic zumba class!
We later devoured our dinner from tasty pizza joint, Crust. Cairns is an unsuspecting vegan place. Though relatively quiet during our stay, I could imagine the laid-back town coming alive at night during high season.
Thursday was a full-day GBR tour with Ocean Freedom. Lexi and I boarded the catamaran with low expectations for marine life visibility considering the conditions; hoping for the best, but expecting the worst. Nevertheless, the entertaining crew reassured us as they served fresh fruit and coffee for breakfast.
En route to our first location at Upolu Cay Reef, Lou provided the group with a comprehensive, informative dive briefing, including scuba diving equipment, underwater communication signals, safety and procedures. When it was time for our intro dive, Lexi and I suited up and jumped in! We performed a skills test in the water just below the surface in order to ensure that we were comfortable with the hands signals and tactics to relieve the pressure in our ears. My heart was racing for those first few minutes under water, but my breathing slowed as Lou guided us through the reef. I was amazed at the variety of sea life; tiny clownfish darting in and out of the coral, giant clams, stingrays lying on the sandy bottom, sea turtles, and even a white tip reef shark!
After our 30-minute dive, Lexi and I traded in our scuba equipment for snorkel gear while other divers took their turns. We also took advantage of the glass bottom boat tour to learn more. As one of the seven natural wonders of the world and a World Heritage Site, the GBR is the largest living structure on the planet--even visible from space. It compromises 2,900 coral reefs, collectively creating a 1,400-mile barrier along the Queensland coastline.
Most notably addressed was the gradual decline of the GBR. Globally, our climate is undergoing fundamental shifts, both in rising temperatures and the frequency of extreme weather events. Zooxanthellae are a type of algae that live inside corals, providing them with color and energy. However, if the sea temperature becomes too warm, the algae dies, revealing the white skeleton of the coral tissue; known as "coral bleaching." Fortunately, corals can regain their zooxanthellae if temperatures return to normal levels. How effectively humans manage fishing, coastal development, pollution, trawling and shipping will play an important role in the future resilience of the GBR.
After lunch (the irony of the seafood spread was not lost on Lexi and I), the crew took us to “Wonder Wall” on the outer edge of Upolu Reef. Here we enjoyed a drift snorkel tour, where we watched sea turtles casually surfacing for air. An underwater GoPro camera might have been a worthy investment for this trip!
Despite temperatures in the 70s, the wet ride back was chilly. Our time on the reef would have been a an absolute home run on a sunny day with even clearer visibility, but it remains a fond memory that I will treasure forever.
Lexi and I spent Friday, our last day in Cairns, eating and drinking around the lagoon, treating ourselves to our favorite chocolate sorbet. We circled back to Sydney on Saturday before catching our morning flight home. There we stayed with a friendly gay couple at an airbnb near the airport, reminiscing on the past month of traveling...
My first impression of OZ was just lovely. Outside of Circular Quay, I did not get a true feel for Sydney. My next visit would include a ferry ride to a neighboring suburb, like Manly.
Melbourne is a city that I could move to tomorrow. There are a few key moments in life where I've felt drawn towards certain people and places; Melbourne fell into that category. The energy and pace of life was just right for me.
Cairns is a town that I would return to in better weather to scope out the nearby beaches on Port Douglas and the surrounding islands, plus have another go at diving!
Unlike New Zealand, OZ is not so different from the U.S. That being said, it's full of diverse terrains, unique wildlife, and a friendly population. On future travels down under, I would venture to western OZ (i.e., Perth) and the neighboring islands, including Tasmania. Until then, cheers mate!
Melbourne is a city that I could move to tomorrow. There are a few key moments in life where I've felt drawn towards certain people and places; Melbourne fell into that category. The energy and pace of life was just right for me.
Cairns is a town that I would return to in better weather to scope out the nearby beaches on Port Douglas and the surrounding islands, plus have another go at diving!
