The Enchantments is an alpine paradise of granite worn smooth by glaciers, larches manicured by wind and cold, and crystal blue lakes strung together by a creek that tumbles between them. While a handful of backpackers score a lottery-based overnight permit, the majority of visitors complete a 19-mile thru-hike (6,000' gain, 7,800' loss). We parked one car at Snow Lake Trailhead, where we would end the trek, before piling into the second car, which would be dropped at the start--Stuart Lake Trailhead. Armed with headlamps, our group set off shortly after 5am on Saturday. The first section is an easy stroll to Colchuck Lake. Hiking at dawn was surreal, though the moon stayed visible all morning.
Soon after, the route begins climbing steeply over jumbled talus; this is the start of Aasgard Pass. This unforgiving climb rises 2,500' in less than a mile. The path hugs sheer rock opposite Dragontail Peak before traveling through a section of loose rock and scree. The trail can disappear at times, but cairns usually mark the way; following other hikers does not always guarantee the best path. The final push is a scramble over slick boulders, finally topping out at 7,800'. Views stretch from Colchuck Peak and Colchuck Lake to Glacier Peak and Mt. Baker.
The lakes in the Upper Enchantments sit in a stark moonscape of rock, scree and ice below the long ridge culminating in the summit of Dragontail Peak. The trail snakes its way through grey lichen-covered rocks along the shores of Tranquil and Isolation Lakes before dropping steadily to the broad plateau beneath Little Annapurna.
Here the barren rock gives way to a lush alpine meadow, where the creek connecting the lakes meanders gently before tipping into a deeper channel and speeding downhill. We did not encounter any mountain goats along the way, but do not expect to find yourself in solitude on the trek, especially on a fair-weather weekend.
The first larches appear as the plateau ends abruptly in expansive views over Crystal Lake and the Ingalls Creek valley below. Located east of the Cascade crest, larches look like pine trees but their needles turn bright yellow-orange before falling off each autumn.
Inspiration Lake, tucked deep in a basin below Enchantment Peak, marks the beginning of the Middle Enchantments. This area has a distinct fairytale, dreamlike quality. We were very lucky with the weather; clear skies and warm enough to go for a dip in the lakes!
The path descends to Perfection Lake as it passes through tall larches that are several hundred years old.
The route then passes through meadows of grass and over carved inlets leading from Prusik Pass. The view back across the water reveals a stair-step wall of granite over which the main creek cascades down to the lake.
A short while later, the trail climbs slightly and rounds the corner to Sprite Lake, connected to Perfection by a narrow slot of white water.
The Lower Enchantments are marked by the heights of McClellan Peak and Prusik Peak. Under McClellan’s lofty summit sits Leprechaun Lake, an irregular pond draped between ribs of granite topped by dense stands of larches.
Lake Viviane sits in a deep basin below Prusik Peak. The far shore is a wall of rock while its near shore, a smoothed wave of granite where Snow Creek streams down to Snow Lakes. This is the official end of the Enchantments.
The descent to Upper Snow Lake is rugged, including some scramble sections. Snow Creek twists and roars between stands of subalpine firs.
The final section through dark forest follows the Snow Lakes Trail back to the Snow Lake Trailhead. This descent was even more punishing than the climb to Aasgard Pass--the repeated percussion of walking steeply downhill while losing more than a mile of elevation takes its toll. Long before we reached the parking lot, I found myself shuffling listlessly, every step a small victory. 5:15am-6:45pm RT. Post-hike German beer and pretzels at München Haus.
Overall, I am pleased with my first experience of the Enchantments. Asgard Pass was among the most challenging climbs that I have completed, while the total elevation loss also set a new record. If I cannot secure an overnight permit next year, I would still give the thru-hike another go (ideally during Leavenworth's Oktoberfest). I would also be interested to learn more about rock climbing opportunities in the area.
After a much needed sleep-in, Diana and I spent Sunday morning in downtown Leavenworth. Nestled in the Cascade Mountains, Leavenworth has transformed from Native American hunting ground to white settler logging town to Bavarian village. The quaint village is a gateway to nearby ski areas and wineries, while the alpine-style buildings house German restaurants, Christmas shops, and a Nutcracker Museum. On the Wenatchee River, Waterfront Park is home to ospreys and eagles. Diana and I hit the road by noon, already planning our next trip back!
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| Date hiked: 9/21/19 |
