After my hiking excursions in Lake Tahoe, I ventured south to World Heritage Site, Yosemite National Park.
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| 9/7-10 |
SATURDAY (DAY 4): Cathedral Lakes
Date hiked: 9/7/19
Trailhead: Cathedral Lakes
Stats: 8-mile out-and-back, ~1,100' gain, 9,600' max
Synopsis: Easy trek to one of Yosemite's most impressive granite-wrapped High Sierra lakes
Highlights:
-Part of the John Muir Trail
-Seasonal mosquitoes and wasps
Saturday was a long day. I left Tahoe at 7am and arrived at my hostel outside of Yosemite at 7pm. Driving straight through, it only would have taken 4.5 hours via US-395 S; however, I made several stops along the scenic byway.
-Part of the John Muir Trail
-Seasonal mosquitoes and wasps
Saturday was a long day. I left Tahoe at 7am and arrived at my hostel outside of Yosemite at 7pm. Driving straight through, it only would have taken 4.5 hours via US-395 S; however, I made several stops along the scenic byway.
Hidden just outside of Bridgeport, Travertine Hot Springs captures the stunning transition where the dramatic East Sierras meet the Nevada Great Basin.
By early afternoon, I finally arrived at Yosemite's east entrance. The scenery became increasingly more awesome as I climbed higher on Tioga Pass (open seasonally). It is little wonder why the park draws four million visitors annually.
Varied conditions exist in Yosemite's four geographic areas; High Sierra, granite cliffs, sequoia groves and valley. Smooth granite domes, craggy peaks and spacious meadows embody the character of the High Sierra. Miles of hiking trails across Tuolumne Meadows offer adventure, solitude and inspiration for those wishing to explore the glacially carved landscape. Wildlife at high elevation is notably affected as the climate continues to change.
Lower Cathedral Lake is surrounded by Cathedral, Echo and Tresidder Peaks. It is worth the extra effort to continue on a short piece to Upper Cathedral Lake. 1pm-5pm RT.
Olmsted Point, along Tioga Road, looks down on Yosemite Valley from the east.
Lodging at Yosemite Bug Rustic Mountain Resort in Midpines.
SUNDAY (DAY 5): Rest day
Lodging at Yosemite Bug Rustic Mountain Resort in Midpines.
Exhausted after four days of nonstop travel and hiking, I tweaked my game plan to relax and regroup! I spent the day lazily reading and strolling around the camp. Cheryl Strayed's journey on the Pacific Crest Trail in "Wild" was the perfect book to enhance this trip, as I intimately experienced the areas she wrote about and encountered several PCT hikers along the way.
MONDAY (DAY 6): Cloud's Rest
Date hiked: 9/9/19
Trailhead: Sunrise Lakes
Stats:14.5-mile out-and-back, 1,775' gain, 9,926' max
Synopsis: Initial flat walk through Tenaya Lake valley; steep switchbacks gain 1,000' over a mile; brief descent through wooded valley and pond; final uphill push
Highlights:
-Tread slowly along the narrow ridge at the top of Cloud's Rest
-Tread slowly along the narrow ridge at the top of Cloud's Rest
-Lots of up and down; conserve energy for return journey
-Follow short spur trail to take a dip in Tenaya Lake before returning to trailhead
-More crowded since summiting Half Dome now requires a permit
-Option to continue hiking down to Yosemite Valley from Cloud's Rest (shuttle required)
-Follow short spur trail to take a dip in Tenaya Lake before returning to trailhead
-More crowded since summiting Half Dome now requires a permit
-Option to continue hiking down to Yosemite Valley from Cloud's Rest (shuttle required)
It was a chilly start at high elevation--gloves were essential! One of the most epic summits that I have been on to date; 360-degree views of Half Dome, Mt. Hoffman, Sentinel Dome, North Dome, Cathedral Rocks, El Capitan and Merced Lake. Best hike of the trip. 8am-2pm RT.
TUESDAY (DAY 7): Glacier Point + Yosemite Valley
Beginning at the Sentinel Dome/Taft Point Trailhead high up on Glacier Point Road (open seasonally), I formed a long loop by connecting Sentinel Dome, Glacier Point and Taft Point. The short hike to Sentinel Dome (8,100') is an easy to way to get big views into Yosemite Valley including El Capitan, Yosemite Falls, Nevada Falls, Half Dome and Cloud's Rest.
It can be argued that Glacier Point is the most spectacular viewpoint anywhere in the park, with breathtaking vistas of the high country and Yosemite Valley. Washburn Point, just south of here, is similar. A popular but strenuous option is to hike from the valley floor to Glacier Point (3,200' gain in 4.7 miles).
A short walk to the cliff edges at Taft Point offer dramatic vistas of Yosemite Valley, especially El Capitan.
It can be argued that Glacier Point is the most spectacular viewpoint anywhere in the park, with breathtaking vistas of the high country and Yosemite Valley. Washburn Point, just south of here, is similar. A popular but strenuous option is to hike from the valley floor to Glacier Point (3,200' gain in 4.7 miles).
A short walk to the cliff edges at Taft Point offer dramatic vistas of Yosemite Valley, especially El Capitan.
En route to the Yosemite Valley, the iconic Tunnel View showcases El Capitan and Bridalveil Fall rising from the valley, with Half Dome in the background. The massive granite cliffs of Yosemite Valley challenge the body and mind, beckoning climbers from around the world. How these cliffs were formed has baffled geologists for over a century. American Indian legends tell their own stories of how the giants came to be.
The valley is bustling with activity between Yosemite Village and the mix of hiking trails. It was interesting to experience the park from the valley floor after previously being up above. Most of the year, the Merced River flows peacefully through Yosemite Valley. Shrubs and deciduous trees enrich the riverbanks with green ribbons of life. Moist meadows give way to black oak trees that provide nutritious acorns to mule deer, black bears and woodpeckers. A note about crowds: do not attempt to find parking in Yosemite Valley after 10am; snatch the first spot you see, then get out on foot/bike or catch the free shuttle.
At 620', Bridalveil Fall is famous for the mist that wafts off of it when the breeze blows.
El Capitan Meadow provides a close-up look plus a view of Cathedral Rocks. It gave me goose bumps to think of Alex Honnold's recent free-solo of the great wall.
At 620', Bridalveil Fall is famous for the mist that wafts off of it when the breeze blows.
El Capitan Meadow provides a close-up look plus a view of Cathedral Rocks. It gave me goose bumps to think of Alex Honnold's recent free-solo of the great wall.
While Yosemite is beautiful at any time of day, I personally think that late afternoon/sunset provides the best lighting. Famous naturalist and conversationist, John Muir, suggested that the High Sierra not be called the Nevada ("snowy") Range, but the Range of Light.
"It is by far the grandest of all the special temples of Nature I was ever permitted to enter."
-John Muir
A few closing thoughts: While I managed to find a cheap flight and hostels, renting a car for a week was a major financial setback. It provided freedom, but I would be wiser to consider alternative transit options in the future, or bring a friend to split the cost with! I also ran into the same lodging issue at Yosemite as I did at Mt. Rainier National Park last month; staying outside the park adds significant time to drive the winding two-lane roads. If weather allows and a permit is secured, camping inside the park would not only save time and money, but also grant the opportunity to witness sunrise, sunset and the night sky. Next time I return to this climbing mecca will be with my climbing shoes and a permit to summit Half Dome!
