Cusco, Peru (Part 1)

By early April, the Portland streets awakened with the bright greens of budding trees. Apart from a rare, record-breaking snowfall, things seemed to be warming up nicely. The weekend before Easter, Tom and I journeyed south to Peru. I was eager to travel internationally after having been grounded for two years during the pandemic.

Days 1/2: Cusco
We left Friday afternoon, stopping over in LA and Lima. The flight from Peru's cosmopolitan capital on the Pacific Coast to Cusco, high in the Andes Mountains, was simply stunning. We later learned that the country's political climate prevents international flights into Cusco, instead forcing tourists to travel first through Lima.

April 15 - 24

Known as the historical capital of Peru, Cusco is located in the southeastern part of the country near the fertile Urubamba Valley of the Andes (elevation 11,200'). The Andes is the highest mountain range outside Asia. The city was the capital of the Inca Empire from the 13th century until the 16th-century Spanish conquest; in Quechua, Cuzco means "navel of the earth." It has a population of 500,000, and hosts nearly two million visitors a year. 

While the economy grows exponentially, heavy pollution affects rain forest ecosystems and contaminates drinking water. Poverty levels have been halved in the last century, but are still at 30%. COVID-19 has had a devastating impact on Peru's health system and economy, and it's ranked among the countries highest in excess mortality. I was surprised to see most locals wearing face masks--especially as restrictions continue to loosen in the U.S. A few weeks prior to our arrival, locals began protesting rapidly rising prices in Cusco; Peru is battling its highest inflation in over two decades, in part triggered by the Russian invasion of Ukraine. The current exchange rate is 1 USD to 3.5 soles.

Tom and I arrived to Cusco on Saturday morning, and took a 15-minute taxi ride to the city center. Cusco is only two hours ahead of Portland, but we were tired from the overnight flight. Still, I felt rejuvenated to be in a new place, and to brush up on my Spanish skills. Though the room that we had booked for the next few nights was not yet ready, we dropped off our bags and set out to explore. The city is densely populated and hilly. As the rainy season was winding down, the scenery was quite lush and green. I welcomed the strong, high elevation sunshine, and instantly recognized the classically laid-back culture that is common to much of South America.

 

Plaza de Armas is the main square in the heart of the city. Its colonial architecture conveys the impact of the Spanish conquest. However, it was originally the starting point to begin developing the Inca Empire's Imperial City. The ruler of the Incas--the immortal son of the sun god--resided here. Thus, Cusco is the result of a collision of cultures between Inca and Spaniard.

The San Pedro Market fills the senses with colorful sights, smells, and tastes; it's a place where locals sell artisan crafts, fresh produce, smoothies, baked goods, meats, cheeses, and more. We enjoyed our first Peruvian meal here, prepared with love from a sweet elderly woman. The four traditional staples of Peruvian cuisine are corn, potatoes, quinoa, and legumes. Foods brought by the Spanish include rice, wheat, and meats. 

That evening, we checked into our charming bnb and ate dinner next door at Chull's, where Tom tried his first pisco sour.

Day 3: Palccoyo

On Easter Sunday, Tom and I took a day trip to Peru's rainbow mountains. The most famous, Vinicunca, was closed due to disputes between the local Andean communities. As a result, we visited the quieter area of Palccoyo, which offers three rainbow mountains, and is less crowded and an easier hike than Vinicunca. 

The rainbow mountains are a three-hour drive from Cusco, so the tour van picked us up at 4:30am. About half way there, we stopped for breakfast and became acquainted with the members of our group. I am always inspired to meet other travelers and learn about their journeys.

The remainder of the drive was very scenic as we ascended through rural countryside and passed local communities working the land (mostly potatoes and corn) alongside alpaca.

After arriving to the small mountain village, we set out on foot to explore the area. The high alpine landscape was breathtaking, with the vibrantly striped mountains set against the snowcapped Ausangate Mountain. Apparently, the colors come from the erosion of sedimentary mineral layers caked inside the mountain from years of tectonic shifts and volcanic activity.

The trek is short and mostly flat, but very exposed at 16,000'. Coca tea is recommended as one of the best natural remedies to combat altitude sickness. As the raw material for cocaine, coca leaves can be mildly narcotic when chewed or brewed in tea. The plant was sacred to the Incas.

After a few hours, we returned to the van and stopped for lunch on the way back to Cusco. The only downside to this experience is the long, bumpy drive. Overall, it was a very exhausting but worthwhile day!

Day 4: San Blas

Tom and I slept in on Monday, and stopped for a coffee in Plaza de Armas. From there, we climbed to Plaza San Cristobal to take in the view of Cusco.

Then we scaled even higher to the Cristo Blanco, arms spread wide as protector of the city. This would be an ideal spot to catch the sunset.

  

Afterwards, we descended through the San Blas district. This artsy neighborhood is very distinct from the rest of town. Its winding, narrow cobblestone streets and architecture reminded me of the albaicín in Granada, Spain. We stopped for lunch at La Bo'M, a classically hipster backpacker hangout. I would like to stay in San Blas on future trips to Cusco!

 

 

To be continued...