While I have spent many hours on the mountain hiking, paddling, and snow-shoeing, summiting it has topped my bucket list since moving to Oregon. Tom and I booked a guided climb with Timberline Mountain Guides for a May 11-12 summit. During late summer and fall, rockfall is significant and glacial crevasses are more exposed. Winter months can have outstanding climbing conditions, but storms are more common. May and June are ideal.
On Thursday morning, we met at TMG's office at Timberline Lodge to review gear and logistics. Tom and I were paired with a couple from the East Coast, Peter and Marta. Guides Geoff and Laura offered a wealth of combined experience. In fact, Geoff has successfully climbed Hood over 400 times!
Our group of six spent the morning in a steep snow climbing clinic. We hiked 10 minutes from the lodge to a steep snow gully, where we spent a few hours learning basic mountaineering skills; footwork in mountain boots and crampons, ice axe usage, and rope/anchor systems.
That afternoon, we took a snowcat to Silcox Hut at 7,000'. The centerpiece of the cozy hut is a large room with a fireplace and comfortable seating, alongside the dining room with hand-carved wooden furniture and windows overlooking all of Oregon. The lower level includes comfortable bunk beds that sleep 24 people.
Our team joined three other teams at the hut; together we made 16 climbers and eight guides. Most were from out of town and half were part of the High Pointers club--a group of active individuals that bag the highest points in every state.
Catered dinner was served family-style by the hut-keeper; delicious veggie pot pie, salad, and steamed broccolini, plus dessert and drinks. We had a final chat with the guides before an early bed time.
The first two teams woke at midnight to the smell of hot coffee and a light breakfast. An early start avoids soft snow, rock/icefall near the summit, and crowds at the Hogsback ridge.
While there are several routes to the summit, the Class II South Side route is the shortest and most popular. Most people begin from Timberline Lodge (5,800') and follow the Palmer chair lift to Triangular Moraine (a pile of glacial till) near the Silcox Hut. At 1am, the snowcat dropped us off above the Triangular Moraine at 8,500'. We strapped on our crampons, helmets, and headlamps to begin the climb of 2,500' over two miles.
Geoff and Laura found boot tracks from climbers on the previous day, which began our slow ascent of a large snow field to the east side of Crater Rock. Unlike a switchback dirt trail, hiking on snow requires more effort and navigation. It was 30°F at the start, but the exertion prompted an endless battle of adding and subtracting layers; efficient packing is key.
Straight ahead, I could just make out the silhouette of the looming mountain in the dark. To our right was an immaculate orange moon. Below, a neat trail of climbers' headlamps. Above, a starry sky. This was one of the most surreal moments of my life.
The smell of spoiled eggs seeps from the sulfur-fuming Devil’s Kitchen at 10,400'.
To its north side, we reached the wind-carved snow formation called the Hogsback.
The climbing steepened significantly for the last 1,500'. The Old Chute route was preferred to the Pearly Gates variation based on conditions. From the low point on the crest of the Hogsback, we climbed straight up a large, steep open face into a narrowing and even steeper (50°) chute on the right. Geoff and Laura set up a rope and anchor system to ensure our safety through the very steep wall of snow and ice. Fear consumed me as I kicked my crampons and axe into the snow wall one step at a time.
To be clear, this was the scariest thing that I have ever done in my entire life. We were perfectly safe, but I was faced with deep-seated trauma from my ski accident six years ago. Despite a full recovery, I do not have the confidence in my knees to catch myself if I were to slip and fall. I accept that steep snow climbing is perhaps not for me, and reserve a high respect for mountaineers.
The chute tops out onto a level spot 50 yards from the summit. After four hours of climbing, we reached the summit for sunrise at 5:30am. I sent a silent thank-you to the weather gods for giving us clear and windless conditions for panoramic views stretching across Oregon and Washington.
Before I could take it all in, I spun around to find Tom down on one knee, holding a ring. I was flooded with emotions as our group erupted in surprised delight. I could not think of a better moment to become engaged to the man I love.
All too soon, it was time to head back. We remained roped up for the summit descent. It was both exciting and terrifying to see it in daylight. As the sun rose and the snow softened, the layers quickly peeled off. We reached the hut at 9am for a welcomed rest and hot breakfast.
An hour later, we took our last snowcat ride to the office to return our gear and say our goodbyes. Tom and I were still buzzing with the adrenaline of summiting Mt. Hood and our engagement, but we were eager to return to Louie cat before exhaustion caught up with us.
