Lake Tahoe, CA

September ushered in the unofficial transition from summer to fall; shorter days and leaves on the ground. Despite my enchantment with the PNW, I was excited to spend a week in California, split between Lake Tahoe and Yosemite National Park (enter fall hiking).

9/4-6

WEDNESDAY (DAY 1): Mt. Rose

Date hiked: 9/4/19

Trailhead: Mt. Rose (North Tahoe)

Stats: 10.4-mile out-and-back, ~2,000' gain, 10,776' max

Synopsis: Easy 2.5 miles to waterfall before trail steepens to panoramic summit

Highlights:
-Second highest mountain in Lake Tahoe Basin
-On a clear day, summit views extend across the Sierras, Lassen Peak, Lake Tahoe, Nevada and northern Yosemite
-Crowded on weekends

My flight out of PDX captured a glorious sunrise over the Cascade Range that I have come to love over the past year. I had the privilege of flying under the care of the oldest U.S. airline pilot; his wife and children were part of the flight crew, having decorated the cabin with family pictures to celebrate the momentous retirement.

 

My pining for Oregon dissolved into excitement as the plane landed in Reno, NV. Wasting no time, I picked up my duffel and rental car, changed into hiking boots, and drove half an hour southwest to the summit mountain pass of the Mt. Rose Highway (SR 431). I could have saved an easier hike for my travel day, but it was on the way!

Mt. Rose resulted from volcanic activity that began 30 million years ago. It marks the transition zone between the Sierra Nevada and the Great Basin. I was joined at the lofty summit by a stream of butterflies, ladybugs and hawks. Due to looming storm clouds, I finished two hours earlier than expected; 10:45am-3pm RT.

From the trailhead, it was a 45-minute drive to South Tahoe. I stopped along the National Scenic Byway at Memorial Point and Cave Rock Vista Point.

Dinner/groceries at Grass Roots Natural Foods; lodging at The Mellow Mountain Hostel (just as laid back as it sounds).

THURSDAY (DAY 2): Emerald Bay State Park
Located 12 miles north of South Tahoe along the west shore, Emerald Bay State Park owes its spectacular scenery and dramatic alpine peaks, ridges and crystalline lake to the scouring action of glaciers from the Pleistocene Epoch (11,500-1,800,000 years ago). I spent the day exploring various trails in this area.

 

The Rubicon Trail extends for roughly 6.5 miles between Eagle Point and D.L. Bliss State Park. The popular 4.5-mile stretch between the Vikingsholm Estate at Emerald Bay and D.L. Bliss connects rocky points and sandy coves along the picturesque shoreline. I would recommend this easy trek for first-time visitors, especially those less interested in summit hikes. Note that parking at Emerald Bay requires a fee (though you can park for free at nearby turnouts) and an added mile with 500' elevation loss to reach the trailhead. Potentially consider setting up a shuttle system since it's an out-and-back route.

I encountered several beautiful blue birds during my quiet morning walk. Other local wildlife include salmon and trout, marmots and pikas, lizards, frogs and black bears. The sugar pine, found throughout the Sierra and Cascade mountain ranges, has the largest cone of any conifer species, up to 26" long. John Muir named the sugar pine the "king of the conifers."

Just on the other side of Highway 89, a short but steep well-beaten path leads to Eagle Lake. This hike features cascading waterfalls, large granite peaks, lush vegetation, and lots of evergreens. Go early to avoid crowds.

Cascade Falls is a short trek from the Bayview Campground, leading to the top of the falls with views of Cascade Lake and Lake Tahoe.






















Dinner at vegan cafe, Simple Bliss, before catching a stellar sunset at Lakeside Beach.

FRIDAY (DAY 3): Mt. Tallac

Date hiked: 9/6/19

Trailhead: Mt. Tallac

Stats (summer route): 10.2-mile out-and-back, 3,290' gain, 9,738' max

Synopsis: Ascend ridgeline with sweeping vistas of Fallen Leaf Lake before reaching Floating Island Lake and Cathedral Lake; switchback up a broad bowl to gain south shoulder; climb rocky talus to summit

Highlights:
-Highest mountain on Lake Tahoe shoreline
-Desolation Wilderness requires hiking permit (free at trailhead)
-360-degree summit over Lake Tahoe’s turquoise blue waters and surrounding Sierra mountain landscape
-Seasonal wildflowers (and mosquitoes), interesting rocks
-Back-country skiing in winter

This was easily my favorite Tahoe hike; a straight-forward summit hike with rewarding vistas. A painted sunrise gave way to morning clouds and a strong breeze, but overall comfortable hiking weather. 7:30am-1:30pm RT.

I refueled post-hike with a fresh veggie wrap at Sprouts Cafe and beer at South Lake Brewing Company. Strong winds interfered with my hope to paddle board in the afternoon, compelling me instead to shop around town. Friday night in South Tahoe was abuzz with activity at nearby bars, night clubs and casinos.

First impression of Lake Tahoe? Positive! The shoulder season of September/October seems an ideal time to visit by missing the height of summer tourism while still enjoying pleasant weather. Nevertheless, I struggled to get a true feel for the local population/culture of residents. Who lives in Tahoe? I would be eager to experience the winter scene should I ever get back into skiing...

Sunflowers + Surfing

Fall was already in the air by the end of August; that familiar back-to-school smell. Everyone seemed surprised by how short the summer was this year. Lee Farms in Tualatin held its first annual Sunflower Festival. It was a hot and buggy afternoon post-hike, but I enjoyed strolling through the sunny blooms and visiting the farm animals. I even cut a flower to take home!



 



 

On the last day of August, I joined an incredible surf camp with Northwest Women's Surf Camps. Vivacious leader and seasoned surfer, Lexi, started the organization 15 years ago in order to create opportunities for individuals to deepen their connection with the ocean and expand the surfing community. Lexi is the type of person that you meet and immediately want to spend all of your time getting to know better; a kindred spirit. I met her in Seaside along with the rest of the ladies that we would be spending the day with. Lexi opened with a captivating story chronicling the history of surfing in Oregon, and how the culture has grown and transformed since the early '70s. We picked up our wetsuits at Cleanline Surf, the Northwest's original surf shop. From there, we set up camp at Seaside Cove.

Our small group sipped green tea while Lexi, joined by coach Beth, explained the theory behind determining the ideal "recipe" to surf at a particular area; surfing truly is a science, built around knowledge of tides, winds, and swells (among other things). I listened intently to my instructors and tried to retain the wisdom.

Afterwards, we fueled ourselves with a delicious, organic lunch before digging into skills and safety. Then it was time to put the lesson into practice--the group split in two as we hauled our long boards into the water. The water was 60 degrees, but it didn't feel cold against my wetsuit. The first few attempts were frustrating, but I started to get the hang of it once I slowed down. Learning to surf is largely about building muscle memory, so I decided to focus on that instead of perfecting technique. I also tried to train myself to read the waves vs. rely on Lexi to tell me when to start paddling. I am not a "natural," but it felt right to be out there on the water with my board. My happy place.

A glassy, overcast morning with gentle waves slowly dissolved as the sun came out and the wind picked up. After a few hours, I ended on a solid ride into shore. Collapsing on the beach was in my future--talk about a full-body workout--but not before peeling off my wetsuit and going for a dip in the chilly water!

Our newly bonded crew regrouped on the beach, where we wrapped up the day. I felt inspired by this strong community of women, and optimistic about maintaining the friendships. I was also optimistic about my future in surfing. This day camp was an amazing opportunity to become immersed in everything that the sport has to offer, especially compared to a two-hour introductory lesson (no regrets about my experience in Sydney, however). Still, I realize that it still only scratched the surface, and seriously pursuing this lifestyle would require a lot of hard work. Picking up surfing is a much bigger undertaking and commitment than starting to rock climb was in January. Furthermore, the seasonal changes will become more challenging come October; while possible to surf the Oregon coast year-round, beginners tend to take over in the mild summer conditions while the practiced locals (who typically work the summers) emerge in fall/winter when the waves are more advanced. Regardless of where this leads, surf camp was a stellar way to close out the summer.

Obsidian + Broken Top

On one of the last summer weekends (it's over already?) I planned a camping trip in central Oregon with Tom, Kyle, and my co-worker, Amber. We got an early start on Saturday, driving three hours to the Willamette National Forest via I-5 S to OR-22 E and OR-126 E--one of my favorite drives in Oregon.

The Obsidian/Scott Trail loop hike covers 16+ miles over ~2,800' elevation change. The unique landscape in the Three Sisters Wilderness encompasses crystal clear streams and lakes, wildflower meadows, rugged mountains, young lava flows and obsidian cliffs. Leading in a counter-clockwise direction from the Obsidian Trailhead, the Obsidian Trail #3528 climbs through lodgepole pine and hemlock before passing through a lava flow with views of the Three Sisters. The path then crosses White Branch Creek and tracks uphill through alpine forests, meadows and Obsidian Falls.

 

Connecting to Glacier Way Trail #4336 provides a popular 12-mile loop for day-hiking or horseback riding. Tom and I continued on, however, picking up the Pacific Crest Trail #2000.






















After passing Arrowhead Lakes, the route enters a steep lava canyon called Sawyer Bar. We circled around Collier Cone and climbed to Opie Dillock Pass.

The path levels out across several streams, including Minnie Scott Springs, eventually connecting to the Scott Trail. We were blessed with perfect weather--clear skies and pleasant (not scorching) temperatures. After spending my first summer in the Northwest, I have learned that July hiking is a tradeoff of wildflowers for mosquitos; we were mostly mosquito-free but missed the summer wildflowers.

 

After crossing a beautiful meadow, a worthwhile side trail leads to spectacular mountain vistas from the 4 in 1 Cones.

North and Middle Sister

Mt. Washington, Three Fingered Jack, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Hood

Date hiked: 8/24/19

A final descent through quiet forest completes the loop. Currently, a limited entry quota is in effect to preserve the natural beauty of the Obsidian wilderness. Although doable as a day-hike, the group agreed to try for an overnight permit next summer; backpacking would allow time to explore more of the spur trails and fully connect with nature. 10am-5:45pm RT.

Back in the car, we continued on OR-242 E to Creekside Campground in Sisters (40 minutes away). There we set up camp and celebrated our win at Three Creeks Brewing Company. The epic day ended around the campfire--and under the brilliant night sky--with s'mores, guitar, and good company.

The next morning, our foursome drove an hour towards Bend via OR-22 E to US-97 S. Broken Top is a 300,000 year-old highly eroded stratovolcano in the Three Sisters Wilderness. The busy 5.8-mile out-and-back (1,385' gain) shows off its colorful ramparts and a panorama of alpine scenery. Note: high clearance vehicle required for the final five miles of unpaved access roads leading to trailhead; alternate route from Todd Lake is 14 miles RT.

We off on Broken Top Trail #10, first entering a subalpine fir area.

 

After ascending a sandy slope, views in all directions opened up.

Broken Top, Broken Hand, Ball Butte

We crossed alpine meadows and followed the creek up to a breach in the moraines.

 

Ball Butte, Mt. Bachelor

 

We managed to clamber through the notch, which revealed a remarkable sight: Broken Top’s crags looming above the turquoise waters of No Name Lake. The murky lake is fed by melt from the remnants of Bend Glacier.

Date hiked: 8/25/19

Following the path along the east shore of the lake, we climbed to the ridge crest at 8,250' to enjoy expansive vistas of the Three Sisters and north up the Cascades. Much of the forest in view was scorched by the Pole Creek Fire of 2012. Below is the more substantial fragment of the Bend Glacier, with a few meltwater tarns glistening in the sun. 9:45am-12:30pm RT.

South Sister, Middle Sister, North Sister

Mt. Washington, Three Fingered Jack, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Hood, Mt. St. Helens

On our way back to Portland, we stopped for lunch in Bend at Cascade Lakes Brewing Company (#29). From there, it was a 3.5-hour drive home via 97-N to 26-W, as we left the high desert behind and and began the cool descent into Mt. Hood National Forest. One of my favorite weekends to date!