The Wallowas

The Wallowas are a mountain range located between the Blue Mountains and Snake River in northeast Oregon. Here you'll find snowcapped granite peaks, glacial lakes, wildflower meadows, and little-known hiking trails. The "Oregon Alps" are one of the seven wonders of Oregon. Working ranches and canyons surround the remote Eagle Cap Wilderness.

Aug 4 - 7

THURSDAY
Tom and I left after work, driving four hours east to La Grande--a small town instilled with strong morals and values. Eastern Oregon has a rural, country-western flair with genuine, close-knit communities. Carved by the Oregon Trail, the land has changed little since pioneers crossed by wagon. I was first introduced to this last summer in the Steens (southeast Oregon), and it quickly became the theme of this trip. Coupled with its access to pristine backcountry, eastern Oregon is one of the most underrated parts of the state.

Although we arrived later than planned, we stayed with our dear friend Sam, who we met just a few months ago on the Inca Trail. It was a true joy to meet his family and see where he lives. Looking forward to our next reunion! 

FRIDAY

Tom and I drove 1.5 hours to the Wallow Lake Trailhead, relieved not to have to fight for a parking spot. Most hikes in the Eagle Cap Wilderness are relatively long and strenuous, which makes backpacking the best way to explore it. While it can be done as a day hike, the trek to the coveted Ice Lake is 15.4 miles roundtrip (3,380' gain). We set off at 9:30am, winding along Adam Creek under forest canopy before climbing through meadows blooming with wildflowers and scented shrubs. Ascending to the alpine zone leads to Ice Falls and Beauty Falls. 

 

At 7,900', Ice Lake is a tranquil oasis below the Wallowas’ highest ridge. To the north is the long ridge of the Hurwal Divide. The Matterhorn, with its slopes of dark limestone capped by white marble, looms to the west. To the south is a jagged ridge with Craig Mountain. In the evening and early morning, mountain goats graze on the high meadows. 

Tom and I reached Ice Lake in 3.5 hours, with aching shoulders from carrying our heavy packs. We set up camp in a secluded part of the peninsula. Despite it being one of the most popular areas of the Wallowas, we found it relatively empty compared to areas closer to Portland. We fueled up (think PB & Js) and explored the lakeshore before a brief hail storm rolled in. It cleared up quickly, but we sheltered inside the tent for a good part of the afternoon to hide from the pesky mosquitos; incentive to come back in early fall (also to see the aspen trees change color).

SATURDAY
The Matterhorn is a 3.6-mile trip from Ice Lake. The trail climbs 1,980' in 1.8 miles, making for a very steep climb. At 9,826', it is just 12' shorter than Wallowas’ highest summit, Sacajawea Peak. Trekking poles and a liter of water are recommended.

Tom and I reluctantly left our warm sleeping bags and set out at 9am, following a boot path that leads along a creek tumbling down an alpine slope. I filled my water bottle from the icy creek. After the meadow, the granite benches become less vegetated as you ascend into the high alpine zone. Loose, dark limestone transitions to light marble on the summit ridge. 

We summited in 1.5 hours. On a clear day, views extend along the expanse of the Wallowas. The endless peaks and rugged terrain reminded me of a Colorado vista. Perfection.

While tempting to follow the ridge to bag Sacajawea Peak, this approach is not advised. Returning from the summit, we negotiated the path with a couple mountain goats, and detoured to visit the turquoise tarn in the cirque below the summit ridge. From the edge of the bowl, Ice Lake sparkles below. Some route finding is needed to connect with the boot path that leads down to the lake; looks for cairns.

We returned to the lake shortly before 1pm to change clothes, grab a bite to eat, and break down camp. It took us about 3 hours to hike out. After trekking 19 miles in two days, my dogs were barking; good socks and shoes are key.

This was my first successful and true backpacking experience. The biggest lesson was to pack less food and water. While I still prefer day hiking, I do appreciate the tradeoffs and will likely continue to seek out backpacking excursions in the future. 

  

We stayed in a bnb 20 minutes north in the small town of Enterprise. I was over the moon to clean and be cleaned. That evening, we walked to Terminal Gravity Brewing for beers and grub.

SUNDAY
Tom and I returned to Wallowa Lake in the morning. He went for a long run while I paddled on my SUP. I couldn't believe that I practically had the serene lake to myself at 9am on a Sunday. I was also surprised to see floating docks along the edge of the lake. The dramatic view of the mountains reminded me of the small Coloradan town, Ouray--coincidentally the "Switzerland of America." The perfect ending to a stellar weekend. 

This was a a great intro to northeast Oregon. Next time, I would like to hike Eagle Cap and ride the gondola from Wallow Lake Village to Mt. Howard. It would enjoy taking time to explore the quaint town of Joseph and continue on the Hells Canyon Scenic Byway to the canyon overlook. 

Canyon Creek Falls

On a free Saturday, Tom and I hiked to McNeil Point on Mt. Hood. This is one of my all-time favorite Oregon hikes--a 10-mile (2,200' gain) out-and-back with beautiful scenery and some of the best views of Hood. I hiked this trail the same weekend in 2019, but there was much more snow this time due to the late season snows. The summer wild flowers were subsequently delayed this year as well. 

We took the boot path short cut to the top in order to avoid the snow fields on the main route. This steep option has a couple sketchy scramble sections, which I would not recommend to inexperienced hikers. Still, I was amazed at how quickly we reached the stone shelter on the ridge. Perfect weather and clear views of Mts. Hood, St. Helens, Rainier and Adams. 

We continued up another mile to Ho Rock at 7,000' for an even closer look at Hood. How I wish to climb it someday!

After soaking in the sun and vistas, Tom and I headed back to the trailhead via the longer, more gradual decent. The snow fields were manageable to cross with trekking poles, but microspikes were a bonus. 930am - 3pm.

This year might turn out to be my lightest hiking season since I first got into hiking while living in Colorado. A few reasons for this: working full time, other hobbies/triathlon training, and crossing off all of my bucket list day hikes within 3 hours of Portland. Still, hiking remains one of my very favorite activities. 

The next day, I went back to the Willamette Narrows for a morning paddle. This peaceful area of the Willamette River, just 30 minutes south of Portland, contains a grouping of basalt islands with narrow channels and unique geology and habitats.

My new favorite paddle destination is 1 hour northeast of Portland. Lake Merwin and Yale Lake are neighboring reservoirs on the Lewis River in Washington. There are a few parking options, but I recommend the gravel lot just before crossing the Yale Bridge. There are no facilities, but it has a quieter launch spot.

From the water, a left under the bridge leads to Lake Merwin and Cresap Bay. However, I turned right and paddled downstream towards the Merwin Dam. The wide open river was very calm and clear. It felt refreshing to take a dip! Lush green northwest beauty lines either side, along with small waterfalls, streams, and wildlife.

Just before the roped off section, I turned right into Canyon Creek. When you can't paddle any further, you've reached Canyon Creek Falls. This is a great spot for a break before turning back.

It took me 45 minutes to paddle each way. Go early to avoid crowds (9am on a Saturday was perfect). Next time, I would like to come back with friends and explore Lake Merwin.

My first article was published this month for the animal advocacy group, Faunalytics. Portland set a new record at the end of July for its longest heat wave in recorded history. This is just one year after we smashed all-time high temperatures. Moving in a plant-based direction is one of the best ways to slow climate change, fuel our bodies, and stop killing innocent animals. Speaking of which, Louie turned 1 year old on July 24th. What a blessing to have this little fur ball in my life!

  

Hagg Lake Triathlon

Over July 4th weekend, Tom and I hiked Mt. Defiance. This 13-mile loop climbs 5,000' to the highest point in the Gorge. It is used by many as a training hike; I try to do it once a year to make sure that I'm in shape for the summer; this was my fourth climb. The parking lot was filling up quickly at 7:30am on Saturday. It was ideal weather, and Tom and I logged six hours of hiking time--which we were happy with until we met a pair of trail runners jogging it four times that day.

Mt. Hood

Mts. St. Helens, Rainer, Adams

  

The following weekend, Tom played in his family's disc golf tournament. About four times a year, the Marshalls host a tournament on their forested 30-acre property northwest of Portland, where they built an 18-hole course almost 20 years ago. I tagged along to support Tom and help his mom with set up, t-shirt sales, and serving lunch. 50 people entered the tournament, and were randomly paired up to play two rounds. The overall vibe of the disc golf community is friendly and relaxed. I snuck out in between rounds to go for a trail run in nearby Forest Park. The weather was just perfect. Oregon summers.

 

Tom and his partner, Liam, placed 3rd!

I went to Hagg Lake the next weekend for my second triathlon. Hagg Lake is one of the oldest and most scenic tri courses in the country. It's also a much more challenging course compared to Blue Lake. Despite that, I doubled the distance of my sprint tri in June by entering the olympic tri: roughly 1-mile swim, 25-mile bike ride, 6-mile run. I felt prepared on race day, and packed a positive mental attitude. I also felt grateful for the comfortable weather, and for my support team--Tom and his parents.

 

 

 

The swim was smooth (32 minutes). The water was warm but I wore my wetsuit for buoyancy and protection from bumping into other athletes. My transitions were also smoother than the previous time. The bike ride was the toughest part for me due to the steep rolling hills, totaling close to 1,700' gain (1.5 hours). The run was also hilly, but I focused on keeping a consistent pace (1 hour). I finished in about 3 hours, which was, believe or not, towards the back of the pack. I felt humbled by this, but also proud of myself.

My tri friend and neighbor, Jared

This is likely it for me and triathlons this year, but I am excited to keep a half ironman on my radar for the future. In the meantime, I look forward to spending more time on my other outdoor hobbies this summer!