Schweiz

Switzerland is a small country in central Europe that is known for its natural beauty and way of life. The wealthy and orderly country is home to towering mountains, alpine lakes, grassy valleys dotted with neat farms and quaint villages, and thriving cities that blend old and new. Banking and finance are key industries, and Swiss watches and chocolate are world renowned.

September 3 to 9

Valais (in French; "Wallis" in German) is a canton in southern Switzerland. Located in the heart of the Alps, Valais is home to the Matterhorn, upscale ski resorts, and upper Rhône River Valley vineyards. The western half of the canton speaks mainly French, while the eastern half is German-speaking (rather, a dialect known as Swiss German).

SATURDAY: Zurich to Zeneggen

I left Portland at 7pm on Friday on a 10.5-hour overnight flight to Frankfurt. From there, it was a quick jump to Zurich. Switzerland is 9 hours ahead of Portland, so I arrived around 5:30pm on Saturday. My sister Rita, who arrived a few days earlier to experience Zurich, met me at the airport train station. Europe is connected by an efficient train system, so we purchased the 8-day Swiss Travel Pass. We caught up during the scenic two-hour ride south. From Visp, we took a 15-minute taxi ride up the steep, winding mountainside to the tiny village of Zeneggen. Rita and I finally arrived to the hotel around 9pm, where we joined the rest of our family.

SUNDAY: Family reunion
After a good night's sleep, I went downstairs to a beautiful spread for breakfast. I cannot say enough about the warm hospitality during our stay at Hotel Alpenblick. The small, family-run bed and breakfast was built in 1935. Smartly renovated, the charming lodge is a cozy home in the center of Valais. Christoph inherited responsibility of the business, and does excellent work in the kitchen and wine cellar. Lending a hand in the dinning room are his mother, Elsbeth, and Bernadette--an intriguing woman from Germany. 

The hotel kindly hosted the family reunion with our Swiss relatives. My paternal grandfather grew up in Zeneggen in a family of 12 children before immigrating at age 28. As a result, we have a lot of cousins in Switzerland. The reunion began with mass at the Kirche. Marcos invited us to watch him ring the bells in the ancient tower. The bells ring on an automated system now, except for when mass is held at the church every other week. The neighboring hilltop communities share a priest, so mass rotates at different churches.

Afterwards, we migrated up the street to the hotel for refreshments on the patio. It was exciting and overwhelming to make the rounds and meet everyone; it had been over 20 years since I had last seen most of them, so introductions were in order. My mom brought copies of the family tree, which was a big hit.

Eventually, lunch was served, and the mingling continued. I was surprised to see the "kids" all grown up, some of them with children of their own now. Most of the younger generation speaks English, but many of the older folks speak Swiss German plus or minus French. My dad speaks the language, but it is strong incentive for me to learn German before the next reunion!

The turnout was a success, with over 100 people in attendance. A big thank you to my dad for organizing it, and to the hotel staff for hosting. Looking forward to the next reunion!

 

That evening, Andres took us on a walk up to the Kapelle. Zeneggen is truly the quintessential Swiss mountain village. With a population of around 300, it sits high above the Visp Valley, isolated from the hustle and bustle of modern life. In fact, the government incentivizes families to move there in order to keep the schools open.

 

Carmen joined us for a delicious dinner at the hotel that night. Rösti (pan-fried potatoes) quickly became my favorite local dish.

MONDAY: Moosalp & Törbel

After breakfast, my family and I caught the bus going up to the Moosalp. The high mountain pass across the western Alps connects the villages of Bürchen and Törbel. The Moosalp offers stunning panoramic vistas in all directions and a continual soundtrack of cowbells. Elevation 6,719'.

From there, we hiked mostly downhill to Törbel--another picturesque village with mountain chalets built into the steep mountainside.

We lucked out with weather during the week; rain was forecasted every day, but we had at least partial sun each day, comfortable temperatures, and rain only at night. Like most places, however, the area is in desperate need of rain. We stopped for an afternoon beer before hiking back to Zeneggen, clocking eight miles.

TUESDAY: Sion
Sion ("Sitten" in German) is a 30-minute train ride west of Visp. It is a sun-blessed French-speaking town with terraced vineyards and medieval castles. My great aunt met us at the train station and gave us a tour of the town where she currently lives. She led us through Old Town, past the 15th century cathedral and the Witches' Tower.

 

Tante Lia has dedicated her life to the Catholic church. She is part of the Sisters of Saint Ursula order in Sion. As such, she became a missionary and helped establish an order in West Africa's Ivory Coast . She is one of my grandfather's last remaining siblings, and a very special person.

 

After having lunch at the convent, we walked to the 13th century hilltop castles. The Valère Basilica houses an organ over 500 years old--the world's oldest organ that is still playable. Sitting opposite, Tourbillon Castle was the summer residence of the bishops, and is now a ruin after it was destroy by a fire in 1788. The All Saints Chapel, a small Romanesque-Gothic building from the 14th century, is located between the two hills.

 

 

After a tearful goodbye at the train station, we parted with Tante Lia. My parents left with Dorly to visit Onkel Hans and Tante Marie, while Anna, Alex, Rita, and I took the train east to Brig (just past Visp). Brig sits at the foot of the Simplon Pass, which leads to the Italian border. It is a stop on the Glacier Express railway, and is known for its thermal baths, St. Sebastian Chapel, and 17th-century Stockalper Castle.

WEDNESDAY: Saas-Fe

Saas-Fe is a 50-minute bus ride south of Visp. The car-free ski resort town is one of four villages in the Saas Valley. Thirteen 4,000 meter peaks surround the glacier village.

My family hiked the Chamois Trail and visited the revolving restaurant, Allalin, while I took on the Almagell High Altitude Trail. This trail above tree line offers sweeping vistas over the Saas Valley and the highest mountains in Switzerland. The hike starts at the Kreuzboden station, which can be reached by cable car from Saas Grund. The trail runs southwards in the direction of Saas-Almagell. The first section is marked as an alpine flower walk. 

After crossing the ridge, a beautiful view stretches from the Mattmark Dam to Stalden.

From here, I descended past mountain goats and sheep to the Almagelleralp mountain restaurant. Downstream, the hiking route continues to a junction, where the right-hand path continues to Saas-Almagell.

The trail network is well-marked, but I still found it difficult to navigate at times. The terrain, however, is perfect for trail running; 6.5 miles mostly downhill.

For lunch, I met my family at Arvu Stuba. Saas-Fe would undoubtedly warrant a return visit! Back in Zeneggen, we ate dinner, played cards, and watched the lightning storm from the balcony.

THURSDAY: Diepja
A rest day was needed to break up our otherwise packed schedule. Despite its beauty, it admittedly does get tiresome to drive the endless set of switchbacks from Zeneggen to Visp. Interestingly, our cousin, Christian, is the bus driver in Zeneggen; constantly navigating the tight, hairpin turns behind the wheel of a bus is no small task! 

After breakfast, I decided to explore the trails around Zeneggen, which are hilly but ideal for hiking and running in the summer, cross country skiing in the winter. I found my way to the Diepja, which is the summer house of our relatives. The scenery is simply spectacular.

 

From there, I continued on to Obera Hellela, and finally descended through Alt Zeneggen.

That afternoon, Christoph gave us a tour of the hotel's wine cellar. Grape harvesting had just started, so he was excited to begin making a new batch of wine. Pinot Noir is their main red varietal, which is coincidentally the most common wine grape in Oregon's Willamette Valley.

 
FRIDAY: Zermatt

Zermatt is an hour south of Visp by train. The mountain resort, which is known for skiing, climbing, and hiking, lies below the iconic, pyramid-shaped Matterhorn peak. Its main street is lined with boutique shops, hotels, and restaurants.

We began our visit with a train ride to Gornergrat. The cogwheel railway starts from the village and ascends to an elevation over 10,000'. The 30-minute journey lends a constant view of the Matterhorn, with a panorama of mountains and glaciers at the top. We hiked down to Riffelberg for photo ops of the area. Apparently, getting a clear shot of the Matterhorn is pretty special; we were relatively lucky with just one stubborn cloud near the summit for most of the day.

 
Back in the village, we took a cable railway to Sunegga. From there it's a half-mile trek down to Adler Hitta--a nice perch to refuel with a great view.

From Sunegga, we continued up via gondola to Blauherd. I intended to take a short hike to the lake at Stellisee, but decided to scrap it because I was running short on time. Instead, I took the cable car to Rothorn.

I highly recommend a trip to Gornergrat, as well as the series of lifts to Rothorn. However, it would be better to split this over two days in order to allow time to fully enjoy. Plus, it is worth making time to walk through the village.

We returned to Zeneggen that evening to have dinner with our cousins. Andres and Edith had just left for Italy, but their children, Anja, Noah, and Jan, hosted and cooked for us. It was very memorable--and rather adorable--to have these early 20-somethings welcome us into their home.

My initial impression is that Switzerland is something of a utopia; clean, orderly, efficient, and naturally beautiful. I am eager to visit other areas of the country, and to investigate opportunities for expats. Clearly, the wheels are turning to make this my next home!

Bridge Pedal

Bridge Pedal is a non-competitive, community bike ride over Portland’s Willamette River bridges. A local hospital system began hosting the event in 1996. Today it is one of the largest community bike rides in the world. Cyclists can choose from several routes; we signed up for the 23-mile ride that starts from the Fremont Bridge at sunrise.

Tom and I met our friends Kyle and Kristen, along with 10,000 cyclists, on Sunday morning to pedal nine of the city bridges. Most are already bike-friendly, apart from the ones that connect highways. I was excited to cycle the Fremont and Marquam Bridges, which offer spectacular views of town. 

The energy of the atmosphere was contagious. There was food and musical performances, and the weather was perfect. What a fun event!

At the end of August, Tom's law school friends held their annual reunion in Sunriver--a resort community just south of Bend. I drove up Friday after work to spend the weekend with the crew. Last year, I was on a mission to maximize my time in central Oregon by cramming in epic hikes and paddles. This time, however, I decided to relax and go with the flow. On Saturday, I joined Alina and Steph for a paddle on the Deschutes River before grabbing lunch in Bend. That evening, I borrowed one of the bnb bikes for a casual ride through Sunriver, stopping to take a dip in the river. The weather was just perfect with cool nights and hot and sunny days. It's always tough to leave central Oregon.

Louie is delightful as always.

  

The Wallowas

The Wallowas are a mountain range located between the Blue Mountains and Snake River in northeast Oregon. Here you'll find snowcapped granite peaks, glacial lakes, wildflower meadows, and little-known hiking trails. The "Oregon Alps" are one of the seven wonders of Oregon. Working ranches and canyons surround the remote Eagle Cap Wilderness.

Aug 4 - 7

THURSDAY
Tom and I left after work, driving four hours east to La Grande--a small town instilled with strong morals and values. Eastern Oregon has a rural, country-western flair with genuine, close-knit communities. Carved by the Oregon Trail, the land has changed little since pioneers crossed by wagon. I was first introduced to this last summer in the Steens (southeast Oregon), and it quickly became the theme of this trip. Coupled with its access to pristine backcountry, eastern Oregon is one of the most underrated parts of the state.

Although we arrived later than planned, we stayed with our dear friend Sam, who we met just a few months ago on the Inca Trail. It was a true joy to meet his family and see where he lives. Looking forward to our next reunion! 

FRIDAY

Tom and I drove 1.5 hours to the Wallow Lake Trailhead, relieved not to have to fight for a parking spot. Most hikes in the Eagle Cap Wilderness are relatively long and strenuous, which makes backpacking the best way to explore it. While it can be done as a day hike, the trek to the coveted Ice Lake is 15.4 miles roundtrip (3,380' gain). We set off at 9:30am, winding along Adam Creek under forest canopy before climbing through meadows blooming with wildflowers and scented shrubs. Ascending to the alpine zone leads to Ice Falls and Beauty Falls. 

 

At 7,900', Ice Lake is a tranquil oasis below the Wallowas’ highest ridge. To the north is the long ridge of the Hurwal Divide. The Matterhorn, with its slopes of dark limestone capped by white marble, looms to the west. To the south is a jagged ridge with Craig Mountain. In the evening and early morning, mountain goats graze on the high meadows. 

Tom and I reached Ice Lake in 3.5 hours, with aching shoulders from carrying our heavy packs. We set up camp in a secluded part of the peninsula. Despite it being one of the most popular areas of the Wallowas, we found it relatively empty compared to areas closer to Portland. We fueled up (think PB & Js) and explored the lakeshore before a brief hail storm rolled in. It cleared up quickly, but we sheltered inside the tent for a good part of the afternoon to hide from the pesky mosquitos; incentive to come back in early fall (also to see the aspen trees change color).

SATURDAY
The Matterhorn is a 3.6-mile trip from Ice Lake. The trail climbs 1,980' in 1.8 miles, making for a very steep climb. At 9,826', it is just 12' shorter than Wallowas’ highest summit, Sacajawea Peak. Trekking poles and a liter of water are recommended.

Tom and I reluctantly left our warm sleeping bags and set out at 9am, following a boot path that leads along a creek tumbling down an alpine slope. I filled my water bottle from the icy creek. After the meadow, the granite benches become less vegetated as you ascend into the high alpine zone. Loose, dark limestone transitions to light marble on the summit ridge. 

We summited in 1.5 hours. On a clear day, views extend along the expanse of the Wallowas. The endless peaks and rugged terrain reminded me of a Colorado vista. Perfection.

While tempting to follow the ridge to bag Sacajawea Peak, this approach is not advised. Returning from the summit, we negotiated the path with a couple mountain goats, and detoured to visit the turquoise tarn in the cirque below the summit ridge. From the edge of the bowl, Ice Lake sparkles below. Some route finding is needed to connect with the boot path that leads down to the lake; looks for cairns.

We returned to the lake shortly before 1pm to change clothes, grab a bite to eat, and break down camp. It took us about 3 hours to hike out. After trekking 19 miles in two days, my dogs were barking; good socks and shoes are key.

This was my first successful and true backpacking experience. The biggest lesson was to pack less food and water. While I still prefer day hiking, I do appreciate the tradeoffs and will likely continue to seek out backpacking excursions in the future. 

  

We stayed in a bnb 20 minutes north in the small town of Enterprise. I was over the moon to clean and be cleaned. That evening, we walked to Terminal Gravity Brewing for beers and grub.

SUNDAY
Tom and I returned to Wallowa Lake in the morning. He went for a long run while I paddled on my SUP. I couldn't believe that I practically had the serene lake to myself at 9am on a Sunday. I was also surprised to see floating docks along the edge of the lake. The dramatic view of the mountains reminded me of the small Coloradan town, Ouray--coincidentally the "Switzerland of America." The perfect ending to a stellar weekend. 

This was a a great intro to northeast Oregon. Next time, I would like to hike Eagle Cap and ride the gondola from Wallow Lake Village to Mt. Howard. It would enjoy taking time to explore the quaint town of Joseph and continue on the Hells Canyon Scenic Byway to the canyon overlook.